Perfumer Archive
Making it simply stupid for anyone, anywhere in the world, to study perfumery anytime at no cost.
Receive free formulas, articles, GCMS reports, and more by Joining our VIP club.
The Rright Percentage of Material X
by: Dr. Ziad El-Desoki "The Founder of Perfumer Archive" | Published: May 20, 2025
what percentage should I use this material at? Can I use it at 0.1% or even 5%?
well, here’s the truth: the “right” level for any material in perfumery is a big lie.
There’s no such thing as the correct percentage.
And in this perfumery coaching session 👇 I’ll show you why.
Trainee perfumer: I like how Evernyl smells. What is its right percentage in formulation?
A: Don't worry, there are no fixed right percentages.
Q: Mmm, is 2% Evernyl the right %?
A: I don't know (it depends), Baccarat Rouge contains 10%+ Evernyl, and it's a best-seller.
Q: Does that mean that Evernyl's right percentage is 10%?
A: For sure, no!
The right % depends on your formula goals and your nose.
If adding material X at 1% gave you the effect you need (so it's the right %),
and if adding it at 50% gave you the effect you need (this will be the right %).
So don't overthink percentages. Let your nose decide.
I'm with "the Average Percentage" (especially for trainee perfumers).
0.5-2% Habanolide
0.2-1% Cardamom oil
Can suit many types of formulas.
But
7% Diacetyl
4% Acetoin
Will be awful, whatever your goal is.
The only thing you want to understand is:
the impact of materials.
Don't buy us a cup of coffee!
Instead,
Support the goal.
We won't drink coffee.
Instead,
We will add new formulas, more articles, and new GCMS reports,
so you can grow your perfumery skills.
Don't buy us a cup of coffee!
Instead,
Support the goal.
We won't drink coffee.
Instead,
We will add new formulas, more articles, and new GCMS reports,
so you can grow your perfumery skills.
Birch Tar Oil, Acetoin & Diacetyl (high-impact materials):
"You don't need a lot to get their effects (even if you want their smell to be dominant in the formula)."
But
Iso E Super, Galaxolide & Benzyl Salicylate (low-impact materials):
"You can dose them in high levels without ruining the formula direction."
Again, the right % depends on your formula goals and your nose.
So forget about the right percentage, and if you are a beginner, focus on the average percentage,
which you can learn through reading formulas developed by other experienced perfumers: you can find them here
And don't forget: practice makes perfect, not reading or listening only.
Creating a unique fragrance often means breaking the rules for using the known average percentage for a dominant material in the formula (or multiple materials).
But how can you achieve this before understanding the fundamentals and knowing the average percentages first?!!
So, if you are a beginner, don't focus on being creative.
You won't be,
but focus on understanding the basics, which will make you creative more quickly.
Recommend New Topics
you can ask us to write about the perfumery topics you want to hear about.
